The Peruvian Amazon River

Our Delfin II Amazon Cruise was scheduled to depart from Nauta an hour and a half drive from Iquitos, but the exceedingly high water level changed our embarkation point to be Iquitos itself.

We landed in Iquitos early evening and had to wait on the plane about 20 minutes for the rains to subside before we could exit the plane and run across the tarmac in the heavy drizzle to the Airport Terminal. We were met by the team from the Delfin II and after all the luggage turned up we were driven down to the dock. The trip took about 30 minutes and the traffic was made up of mainly TukTuks, those 3 wheeled conveyances, it seemed like chaos. I felt like we were on The Amazing Race, the day had been a holiday and there were still celebrations going on and some roads were closed. Once at the dock we were taken across to the Delfin II by the skiffs, had a welcome drink, a short briefing and had a late dinner. That evening sleep was constantly interrupted by the boat hitting some submerged object, the engines being cut and then the whole process starting all over again as we headed up the Amazon River. The total elevation change of the Amazon from Iquitos to the mouth is not very great. The web says "the elevational gradient of the Amazon is very low. Iquitos, Peru is some 3,600 km (2,250 miles) from the Atlantic, yet the river-level at low-water season is only about 100 m (a bit more than 300') above sea-level" So says Project Amazonas.

The next morning we were told we would be approaching the beginning of the Amazon proper at 10AM, where the Rio Ucayali and Rio Marañón meet. It wasn't that impressive of a sight, but we were given a drink to celebrate and the main guide made a Toast "Arriba, abajo, al centro, pa' dentro" The glass held up, then out front, then down and then you drank. In my head I was saying "Eins, zwei, drei, g'suffa".

 The Rio Maranon to starboard.

The Rio Ucayali to port, this is the river our boat cruised up, we went upriver as far as Rio Dorado. For the most part we were "exploring" in the Pacaya Samiria National Reserve.

Some photos of The Delfin II

Each day we had a morning and an afternoon skiff ride exploring side channels, temporary lakes and small rivers. While the Delfin II was on the move, the skiffs where held out of the water. I was told that the 3 skiffs each used 35 gallons of gasoline over the course of our 5 day cruise.

Here is a small side river joining the Rio Ucayali. Some of the smaller side streams were slower moving and less turbid than the main channel as you can see above.

 One morning we went kayaking, we were told to stay away from the trees and bushes at the side of the river because of the possibility of spiders and snakes.

Here's the front half of the kayak with her lampshade.

 The river was high but receding, the waterline on the trees shown above is about 8 feet. The river was about 3 meters above normal the week we were there.

One of the other skiffs from our boat. You weren't required to take every excursion, you were always welcome to stay behind and relax in the lounge or nap in your suite.

 Silt left behind by the annual flooding. The farmers plant rice on the side of the river when the water level drops and then harvest it 4 months later.

These are some of the watercraft we passed on our cruise.

Transportation of goods and non-tourists.

These last 2 photos were of another cruise line we had looked at while planning our trip, but we were very happy with the Delfin II.

Here are some riverside views

 A small village on the river.

 A day camp for fishermen.

 An Amazon lodge.
We also visited Puerto Miguel, a fairly large village which had a shop where local women sold handicrafts. All the tourists show up there.

 Here is a floating restaurant in Iquitos and some more views of Iquitos

 Two last views from the dock where we started and ended our cruise.

Our cruise was a 4 night/5 day cruise and was a perfectly relaxing way to end our Peruvian holiday. There was both a shorter and longer cruise, but I think our pick was just right.

Lima, Peru

We arrived in the evening and had a half day tour the next morning and then it was back to the airport for our flight to Cusco.
The tour only stopped at the Plaza de Armas and the Parque Del Amore, but we drove across many of the different better neighborhoods.

The traffic was so bad I started to worry we might not get back to the airport in time, but I worried for nothing. Currently they only have one public bus line, but more are planned, small private buses known as collectivos and too many taxis are the cause for many of the traffic jams.

Along our route we saw;

Plaza dos de Mayo

Plaza de Armas, this plaza was surrounded by restored buildings,  government buildings, a Cathedral and nearby was a Monastery.

The fountain with the Lima Cathedral in the background.

A better view of the Cathedral.

The Archbishop's Palace and museum, nearby was a Gastronomy Museum. We had time for neither, to be fair I only just found out about the Gastronomy Museum.

 The Government Palace and resident of the president.

The Cathedral had a facade of stone but internally the parts normally made of stone were made of wood, the columns, the vaults. It was done to help resist earthquakes.

The Cathedral had a room for Francisco Pizarro, the guy who was the downfall of the Incas. There is quite a bit of animosity towards him, the Spanish and the Catholic church.

 This hold some of his remains.

A doorway in the Monastery, they also had extensive catacombs with lots of bones. No Photos were allowed. The Monastery also held an important painting of the Last Supper, on the menu was Cuy(Guinea pig). There was a similar painting in the Cathedral in Cusco.

This was parked outside the Monastery. Very retro. I had our guide ask permission to take the photo.

Parque El Olivar, an Olive grove started in 1560, with 3 Olive trees brought over from Spain, the park was made a National Monument in 1959. It looked like a pleasant place to stroll, but we didn't stop.

Huaca Pucllana, on the border of San Isidro and Minaflores neighborhoods is a 1500 year old archeological site having adobe and clay pyramids and other structures. We barely got a look. The adobe lasts because Lima does not get a lot of rain, mainly drizzle. It is one of the driest capitals in the World. The Andes Mountains to the East keeps the rain from the Amazon from reaching Lima.

Parque del Amore, here we got out again and took a short walk along the cliff top, below there were lots surfers and there were also para-gliders. There was a sculpture by Victor Delfín entitled El Beso (the kiss), but we were not impressed and took no photos.

 The Pacific Ocean.

Surfers and some restaurants on the pier.

We then flew from Lima to Cusco (90 minutes), were met in Cusco by Umberto and Michael Schumacher jr. (who spoke English as well as we speak Spanish). Umberto gave us the itinerary for the next day and sent us on our way with Michael, who drove us to Ollantaytambo, about an hour and a half over hill and dale and many switchbacks. It was an interesting ride.

 Just outside the airport in Cusco.

 Some rolling hills on the way to Ollantaytambo.

 And some mountains with glaciers.

Peru Lodging

On our trip to Peru I can't say we had a bad room, the airport hotel was the least luxurious but was clean and roomy enough.

Lima
Costa del Sol Airport Hotel
Spent one night here, only complaint was we were too tall for the bed.
Standard hotel, it was right across the street from the airport, very convenient.

The view from the hotel room looking inland, a giant 3D 6 pack of coca-cola.

Ollantaytambo
El Alberque Hotel
The hotel lobby and restaurant was located on the train station platform, but our room was in a separate building out back. We could hear the trains from our room, but they were not too disruptive. One night walking back from dinner in the town, the sky was so dark all you could see was stars. So many stars I couldn't even pick out any constellations, though we were in the southern hemisphere so I am not too up on those constellations.

 Looking towards the door, the windows had shutters which could be opened or partially shut for light and privacy.

 Looking back to the wardrobe and the bathroom.

The view from the porch down the valley towards Machu Picchu which was an hour and a half away by train.

Machu Picchu
Sanctuary Lodge
Located next to the entrance of Machu Picchu. The room was not huge, the toilet/shower room was small, but it was clean and a pleasant enough place to stay. We also had a patio.

 Our room was the furthest room in the building in the right of the picture.

Not the largest room of the trip, but the location was great.

Cusco
La Casona
This was the most impressive of all the hotels we stayed in. There were celebrations both days we were in the city. The second night I heard drumming and fireworks till 2AM and then at 4AM it seemed like celebrations for the next day started. The Inti Raymi, the Inca Sun Festival was held on June 24. More people were lined up along the parade route for this than the Great Civic Parade in the Plaza de Armas which took place the day before. That parade had villages and organizations marching all day long towards the Plaza and I think there were more people actually in  the parade than watching.

The main room

 The entrance door, had a small window you could open to peer into the courtyard and allow fresh air in when using the fireplace.

 Turn-down service included chocolates and hot water bottles.

The fireplace worked, but we didn't ask for it to be lit.

The bath room was huge. If you called the front desk, they would draw you a bath for free.

The shower was behind the mirror to the left and the toilet behind the mirror to the right.

Peruvian Amazon
Delfin II
We finished out trip relaxing on the Peruvian Amazon.

Here's the Delfin II, top floor was the open air observation deck and bar to the right and lecture room aft. Second floor was suites forward and the dining room aft. Third floor was more suites forward and the engine room and other mechanical stuff aft.

 Top deck looking forward.

 Top deck looking aft towards the bar and the lecture room.

One of the 10 passenger skiffs we went out on twice a day.

Our suite.